July 2002. It’s 90 degrees in the shade in Miami, with nearly 100% humidity as the summer afternoon rains begin to form.  Even Patagonia in the dead of winter seems inviting!

What – Patagonia in winter? I’ve been in the travel business with LADATCO for 33 years. Have I hit the middle-age crises in judgment? No one goes to Patagonia in the winter.  I’ve said so for years. Almost everything closes down; roads aren’t maintained, there’s nothing to do. Who would want to go anyway?

I’d been to Paine Towers National Park twice, both times in late March. The scenery was indeed spectacular and the wildlife viewable but the winds did howl and the weather was cold to colder, especially with the legendary winds shrieking down the Southern Ice Field and right into my face. Patagonia is famous for unpredictable weather. And to top it off, it’s a far trek to get there.

Why then did passengers I sent in July 2001 come back saying Paine in the winter was one of travel’s best kept secrets? Why did Explora stay open all year and many other places closed down? Had Explora managed to overcome all the challenges of Patagonia in winter? Why go there in winter?

Answers to these questions plagued me. After all, I’m supposed to be an expert on travel in the region and I could not have given anyone any concrete answers, and that’s personally embarrassing.

So I decided to go to Patagonia in the middle of winter to find out what being there in the middle of winter is all about. I invested in silk long-johns, bought a pair of microfleece lightweight gloves, got out my SmartWool socks, my hiking boots and my ear muffs. My suitcase full with winter clothing and photographic stuff, I packed a lightweight small duffel-style carry on with a full complement of warm microfleece vests and jackets and stuffed my gortex rain jacket in on top.  This good Florida girl was READY for whatever Patagonia in the middle of winter could bring.

I now know why you should go to Patagonia in the winter. And there are multiple reasons, the two best of which are  Explora itself and Paine Towers National Park.

The Park has a micro-climate, with the short distance separating it from the ocean producing mild temperatures. A thin layer of snow may cover some areas of the Park during the winter months, dusting the mountain tops and highlands, but snow in the valleys is not the norm and generally is not enough to prevent explorations.  The weather overall is much more calm with moderately cold clear days, with those legendary summer winds not a problem.  Temperatures in winter (average over five years for July) are only 20 degrees cooler than in summer, with an average of 54 high and 16 low.

Explora is one of the few facilities open in the park during the winter, and it is fully operational with a complete complement of enthusiastic guides, skilled drivers and a well tuned staff to meet your every need.   You can learn more about Explora here on LADATCO’s website.

 Here are four simple reasons for visiting Paine in the winter: 

1)       Glorious sunrises and sunsets!  The days are short enough that you can experience the sunrise and sunset; summer has long days and the sun is up before you and down late.  

2)       Fewer people! It’s often “all yours”, or you’re sharing it with only a few other like-minded travelers and not with the throngs of hikers and backpackers that come to the park from around the world.

 3)      All the better to see the Puma! In winter, the pumas and other fauna descend from the mountain tops, making it possible to appreciate them in  all their majesty. 

4)       Less wind! The absence of the legendary Patagonia winds makes being outdoors almost as enjoyable as a summer day.

 And probably the best reason of all: great “one-up” cocktail conversation!

Lake Nordenskjold

Guanaco

View of Lago Sarmiento

"Torres" (Towers) from Laguna Amarga

"Cuernos" (Horns) at sunrise

Torres massif at sunset
viewed across Lago Grey