SAMPLE PROGRAM
THE NEXT FOODIE
HORIZON: Chile & Argentina's Vibrant Food & Wine - in the words of Liz Caskey:
Day 1:
Arrival in Santiago and Welcome Dinner
Welcome to Chile! Land this morning in
Santiago’s airport and meet your driver and bilingual guide just outside of customs.
Travel into Santiago and check into your charming, five-star boutique hotel, located in
the heart of the bohemian and artistic neighborhood of Bellavista. Nestled at the
feet of towering San Cristóbal, Santiago’s highest point, this 1930s mansion has
been exquisitely restored to reflect its unique history in this picturesque neighborhood.
The rest of the day is yours to explore our beloved capital city. The hotel is surrounded
by shady streets, shops, and restaurants.
In the evening, meet your
host, owner and food/wine writer, Liz Caskey. Tonight, you are our most special guests at
Liz’s spacious private apartment overlooking Santiago’s Parque Forestal with
panoramic views of the Fine Arts Museum, San Cristóbal hill, and Andes. Sip some of our
favorite sparkling wine and nosh on appetizers then dig into tapas and small plates
inspired from authentic recipes in Liz’s cookbook, regional cooking techniques, and
the fantastic fresh ingredients. A selection of boutique wines complements the food. Feel
like you are in the company of a friend sharing the insider foodie experience in
Santiago—you are. Raise your glasses in a hearty salud. Once again, welcome to
Chile. (D)
Lodging:
The Aubrey
Day 2: Culinary
Santiago & Maipo Valley
After breakfast, head west to “Popular”
Santiago, just north of the downtown, a myriad of eclectic turn-of-the-century
architecture, colorful facades, local characters, and vibrant fresh markets. Set off first
to explore the labyrinth of stands at Santiago’s sprawling wholesale market dating
back to the late 1800s. A picturesque mishmash of stalls, vendors hawk the freshest
seasonal fruits and vegetables, local cheeses, a plethora of meats, mounds of spices, and
indigenous foodstuffs like pine nuts from the Araucaria tree or merkén (smoked chili).
Shop with Liz and select the über fresh produce from her caseros that become the
components of lunch. Wander into the maze of picadas, joints, and pull up a stool with
Carmen, a talented old school cook. Carmen’s eatery pumps out Chilean classics like
sweet corn tamales, steaming stews, and avocado-laden sandwiches. Sample some of these
delicious treats for a satisfying late morning snack.
Cross the rushing Mapocho River to the bustling
fish market where seafood turns over at the speed of light. Visit our favorite monger and
select straight-from-the-sea-fresh fish or tender machas (razor clams) for lunch. A
couple more stops at a local cheese shop to pick up some tasty cheeses before journeying a
little farther south to the village of Pirque in the countryside near Santiago.
Lunch is at a non-profit organic farm and
ecological high school. Get to know the farm’s organic vegetable garden and how they
sustainably and responsibly grow their food; meet the goats who produce milk for the
ethereal Chevre-style cheese; and the rambunctious native Araucano chickens that lay
“blue” free-range eggs. After whetting your appetite, have an intimate al fresco
luncheon in the 19th century villa garden with, of course, home grown ingredients. Spread
the creamy cheese onto freshly baked bread; nosh on juicy vine-ripened tomato pebre, a
mainstay on every Chilean table; and sip away on the selection of red and white wines for
this ultra fresh lunch. Dishes are inspired from authentic recipes, regional cooking
techniques, and the fantastic ingredients. (B, L)
Lodging:
The Aubrey
Day 3: Casablanca and San Antonio Valleys & Valparaíso
This morning, head to the coastal wine
appellation known as San Antonio, the smallest in Chile and, in our opinion, one of the
most exciting. Located only kilometers from the ocean, this “wild west” of
rugged, natural beauty is home to a handful of first-rate boutique wineries that produce
stellar Pinot Noir, cold-weather Syrah, aromatic whites, and crisp Sauvignon Blanc.
Connect
with a family-run winery on their windy, hill-planted vineyards that are responsible for
one of Chile’s finest Sauvignon Blanc. The lifelong dream of winemaker/owner
María Luz, her passion led her to experiment with cool-weather grapes like Sauvignon
Blanc, Pinot Noir, and lesser-known white varieties such as Gewürztraminer and Pinot
Gris--with phenomenal results. The wines are concentrated and powerful; balanced and
expressive with a tingling natural acidity. The family will show us the property and
invite us to a tasting of their finest single vineyard Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc.
After,
explore the surrounding valley where white and cool weather varietals have thrived with
delicious natural acidity, potent fruit, mineral, and earthy aromas. Head to the area
called Lo Ovalle, where a tiny boutique winery producing 3,000 cases per year has ventured
into experimenting with new grape varieties in the valley like Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and
Syrah with tremendous results. An anomaly, they focus on high quality reds, with
show-stopping results. First, saddle up on horseback for a short ride into the
winery’s hills for a stunning view of the vines, flora, and fauna, returning through
the vineyards to a private tasting. Tour the eco-friendly gravity winery and taste a
selection of their premium wines with the winemaker.
For
lunch, stop in the town of Casablanca at one of the valley’s top spots. Housed
in a typical mansion with a chirpy garden, the short-but-sweet menu focuses on country
dishes provisioned by artisan producers, from wild rabbit to estate-raised lamb to organic
produce. The chef also flies in exquisite seafood and fish from the Robinson Crusoe
islands. Try the golden crab or flaky white breca, all in simple and savory
combinations paired with fresh ingredients and Liz’s selection of more boutique
valley wines. Salud!
Travel
west from Santiago towards Chile’s most captivating, cool, and unique city that
clings to the steep hillsides only 140 kilometers from the capital of Santiago. Engulfing
twenty-odd hills, this charismatic port flourished during the 19th century attracting a
cosmopolitan population. Although Valparaíso sunk into economic despair after the opening
of the Panama Canal re-routed commercial barges, it still maintains its whimsical,
colorful soul. Now an UNESCO world heritage site, the city’s singular, splendid
architecture is a living testament to its glorious past—and bright future. Today
“Valpo”, as the locals call it, has a renewed vibe. Young, edgy, and bohemian.
Victorian houses, gothic mansions and Technicolor ramshackle homes intermingle on
hillsides. Valparaiso is now the place for new boutique hotels, a flourishing art and
design community, vibrant nightlife, and one of Chile’s hottest food scenes. Head off
to take the pulse of the turn-of-the-century hills through a short historical walk in the
UNESCO world heritage site. Check out cozy cafés, old-fashioned mom-and-pop shops,
trendy boutiques with fine knit shawls and young designers. Admire the picturesque hills,
bells tolling of nearby churches, children playing and eating eat churros. Valparaíso is
a city that feels like a village—and a time warp. Take part in the afternoon
tradition of onces, or high tea, brought by the British immigrants to Chile in the 19th
century. Stop by the city's most enviable open-air terrace and cozy living room,
part of a swank boutique hotel. In this restored 1920s mansion, we’ll sip on piping
hot tea (or espresso) with sweet cakes before heading back to Santiago. Dinner is on your
own tonight. (B, L)
Lodging: The Aubrey
Day 4: Countryside
Traditions & Colchagua Valley
Checkout of your hotel this morning and journey
south from Santiago into the tranquil countryside, dotted with patchwork fields and
punctuated with red-tiled roofs. The jagged peaks of the Andes Mountains form a
backdrop for the alamo, cottonwood, trees that sway gently along babbling rivers. In the
colonial countryside near Doñihue visit a local chamantera, weaver, of extraordinary
textiles that are sown into ornate ponchos worn only by elegant huasos (Chilean cowboys)
and landowners for special occasions and rodeos. An unforgettable centuries-old craft
practiced in this specific town, visit the oldest weaver still alive who passes this art
on lovingly to the next generation.
Continue south into the Colchagua Valley to visit
a gorgeous colonial winery, a historical monument with tiled corridors and
whitewashed adobe walls. With various vineyard plantations throughout
Colchagua, their passion has been to understand the varied terroir within the valley from
Andean foothills to coast. However, rodeo and polo are also part of the
owners’ passion. Visit their intimate medialuna, rodeo ring, nestled in tall
eucalyptus trees. Be treated to a private showing of the Movimiento de Riendas, Reign
Display, by talented cowboys dressed in their elegant costumes. Watch how dexterously they
manage their horse in this short, authentic, and exhilarating demo.
Afterwards, sit down in their charming, country
chic restaurant by their manicured polo fields with sweeping views of the Andean
foothills. High ceilings and hand-painted floors create the perfect ambiance for their
Chilean comfort creations that include grilled fish, stuffed Cornish hens, and their
addictive charqui (dried beef) empanadas. Enjoy a flight of their most delicious
terroir-driven wines with your meal including their voluptuous Viognier or hearty Quinta
Generación red blend in a hearty ¡Salud!
After lunch, stop to visit friends who produce
premium olive oil. Walk with them through the olive groves and then the almazara,
olive oil plant, to understand the fascinating process of growing the olives, extracting
the oil, and, finally, tasting the different varieties such as Arbequina and Picual.
Chile makes extremely high-quality low-acid extra virgin olive oils for export, so
savor this unique opportunity to learn about this art.
Journey into the peaceful town of Santa Cruz, in
the heart of the Colchagua Valley, check into your quaint hotel on the pretty colonial
town square. Adorned in traditional Spanish style, the wrought-iron balconies and
fuschia bougainvillea provide the perfect location for exploring this delightful
provincial town. Unwind in their spa or scout out the boutiques of this country
town.
After dusk, walk to the private charming country
home of friends whose passion is creating homemade liqueurs. Utilizing a centuries-old
tradition, organic native herbs, fruits and dried spices infuse artisanal spirits.
Learn about this fascinating art and delight in the fruits of their labor in a soulful
aperitif. Afterwards, a brief trip outside town to a simple, bucolic grill housed in
a local winery’s converted 1920s guesthouse is our dinner venue. With textured adobe
walls, high ceilings, and exposed beams, their lush wines are paired with a short but
sweet seasonal menu. Savor local roasted lamb from Marchigue with their Syrah. Suck down
briny oysters from the nearby coast of Boyaruca paired with a zingy Sauvignon Blanc. Or
sink your teeth into a sinful chilenito, a colonial meringue pastry filled with gooey
manjar, milk caramel, accompanied by homemade lucuma ice cream and their late harvest made
from Semillon. Ahh. (B, L, D)
Lodging:
Hotel Santa Cruz Plaza
Day
5: Colchagua Valley
This morning, drive to the western fringes of the
Colchagua Valley to catch up with our friend Patricia on her dairy farm in Marchigue.
Patricia is a passionate artisan cheese maker, long time local, and gifted cook. She
invites the group to see how her addictive manjar (milk caramel), jams, and exquisite
fresh and mature cheeses are hand made every day. You can even feed the baby calves with a
bottle! Connect with her in a casual tasting of her products with fresh juices.
Just down the road, stop to
visit a winemaker friend who is producing one of Chile’s most outstanding
“garage” wineries, named in the top 100 of Wine Spectator in 2010. The house
specialty is Syrah. Let him show you his gorgeous vineyards and learn more about the
privileged terroir and the viticulture as harvest nears. Sit down to a tasting on their
hillside with stunning views of the valley below. Inspirational.
Head to the horseshoe-shaped
Apalta Valley, a micro valley within Colchagua, renowned for its outstanding reds. Stop in
to experience Chile’s chic, innovating, and highly acclaimed winery that belongs to
the Marnier family. Making one extraordinary wine, named 2008 Wine of Year from Wine
Spectator, the wine certainly reflects its opulent setting buried deep in an Apalta
hillside. See the shiny installations followed by a tasting in their gorgeous barrel
cellar. Afterwards, stay for a private lunch at their exclusive wine lodge, overlooking
the lush hillside vineyards and Andes in the distance. Let the resident chef dazzle you
with elegant, simple food paired with house wines including the outstanding Cuvée line
served with the meal. Ahh, this is the life in Chilean wine country!
Having filled your stomachs
and tantalized your taste buds to your heart’s delight, head back to the hotel for a
siesta and a free afternoon and evening. We suggest indulging in a massage where the
nimble fingers of Hotel Santa Cruz Plaza’s expert masseuse will knead you into
blissful relaxation. Or perhaps you prefer to sip wine and contemplate life.
Whatever is your choice, the rest of the day is yours to decompress, enjoy, and savor. (B,
L)
Lodging: Hotel Santa
Cruz Plaza
Day
6: Sunday, May 1: Off to Mendoza, Argentina
Today is Labor Day in Latin America and for
us, a day of active rest traveling to our next stop: Mendoza, Argentina! Drive two hours
north to Santiago’s international airport to catch your short 45-minute flight over
the Andes to the city of Mendoza, Argentina’s “wine capital”. Arrive
at our base for the first days of our Argentine wine adventure in the shady heart of the
city.
Check into your hotel
strategically located in an upscale residential neighborhood in the heart of shady
downtown Mendoza with marble floors, crystal chandeliers, and graceful wrought iron
railings speak of refined elegance. Likewise, the airy and comfortable rooms, with
views of the Andes or the city, are tastefully decorated with discreet style. Bask in the
sun on the rooftop terrace, work out in the state-of-the-art gym, or venture out on foot
to explore the lovely plazas and lively boulevards. Dinner is on your own tonight.
(B)
Lodging: Hotel Diplomatic
Day
7: Luján de Cuyo
Malbec is Argentina’s most famous, beloved, and
alluring wine. This morning, become acquainted with the region of Luján de Cuyo,
the self-proclaimed Tierra del Malbec, Land of Malbec. Explore the different
microclimates of the area and develop an appreciation for why the unique combination of
desert-like climate and high altitude provide the ideal place for the grape to express
itself and flourish
At our first stop, learn how
meticulously tended vines produce the finest wines in Mendoza by one of the region’s
cutting edge, youthful winemakers. Get to know his structured and intense yet elegant red
wines which are full of character. Tour the petit bodega near the Mendoza River
followed by a tasting of different samples of Malbec. You will never look at Malbec
the same way again!
Next, in the area known as
Lunlunta, this winery is hidden off a dusty country road next to an old ivy-covered
church. Chime the bell of this tiny garage winery, whose owner and winemaker is
considered to be one of the fathers of Mendocino terroir. Using their own savings,
ingenuity, and passion, he and his family have transformed and reignited viticulture in
this part of Mendoza. Visit this enchanting place, meet the family, and try their
handcrafted wines along with their homemade artisan olive oil. This is as local as
it gets!
For lunch, you are invited
to personally get to know the passion of Sr. Benegas in a private luncheon and tasting at
Bodega Benegas. Upon arrival, first tour the “old Mendoza” winery that
dates back to 1901, including the original stone barrel cellar. Admire the restored
bodega, which has been decorated by the owner’s wife Carmen, an interior decorator,
with a collection of colorful ponchos from all over Argentina. Afterwards, sit down
to a three-course gourmet dinner privately catered by a local chef. Paired with a
fruit-forward house wine such as their inky Cabernet Franc… or a well-balanced and
loveable Sangiovese… or a favorite peppery Syrah… you will be moved to raise
your copas and cheer your time in Mendoza. ¡Este es la vida!
Return
to your hotel in the late afternoon. Dinner is in your own tonight. (B, L)
Lodging:
Hotel Diplomatic
Day 8: Uco Valley
This morning, drive over the scenic, rolling
hills an hour south of the city of Mendoza to the high-altitude Uco Valley. Here,
surrounded by the grandeur of the Andes Mountains, many wineries are experimenting with
new varietals such as Cabernet, Tempranillo, and Syrah. A lush agricultural valley
in the midst of a parched desert, the valley floor is dotted with almond trees and fruit
orchards.
Begin
this day with getting to know the Bressia Family, who is dedicated to making the very best
wines possible: long, satiny and ripe wines for the soul. Visit their petite family
winery and receive a warm welcome that makes you feel like… family! Learn the
art of their craft and how they slowly built their bodega through hard work and heartfelt
passion. After getting to know the cellar, sit down with them for a relaxed tasting
that includes delicious cheeses and spirited conversation.
Drive
to the southern end of the Uco Valley to the village of La Consulta. In the middle
of the lunar landscape is their winery with irresistibly alluring, architecture.
After touring this high-style bodega, you will understand that the eye-catching look of
the winery is, above all, functional, as it uses gravity in their state-of-the-art
winemaking process. Indeed, the futuristic architecture seems to express the very
essence of a 21st century New World wine. The vision of a Spanish entrepreneur, the
house specialty is Tempranillo. Enjoy a tasting which includes their full range of
wines. Stay on for lunch as the winery’s private guests and prepare to be dazzled by
the creative and seasonally inspired food of Chef Nadia Haron. Join her in the
kitchen for a cooking lesson as she blends her Spanish heritage with innovative techniques
and fresh, local produce, including vegetables from her own garden. With flavors
that are simple but complex, the playfully creative dishes are perfectly complemented by
O. Fournier’s stellar wines such as A Crux, B Crux or their “crunchy”
Torrontes.
Off
of an unassuming road in the village of Vista Flores in the southern Uco Valley, the
intimate wine estate Casa Antucura will welcome you as an honored guest. Check in
and choose one of the eight spacious suites, each personalized with a distinctive
ambiance. For dinner tonight, check out the hotel restaurant where you can tantalize your
palate with tasty regional dishes thoughtfully paired with house wines. (B, L, D)
Lodging: Casa Antucura
Day
9: Relax near the Andes
Enjoy a leisurely morning. Take in the mountain
views while sipping on your frothy cappuccino and savoring the homemade medialunas,
Argentine-style croissants.
At noon, head to the nearby
village of Los Sauces to a new wine co-op project for a private, traditional asado,
barbeque lunch. Savor the tender and juicy meat, an Argentine national pride, seared to
perfection. Pair it with delicious homemade empanadas and a glass of robust high altitude
Malbec. Feel the intense flavor of the grilled steak mix perfectly with the intense
peppery flavor of your wine. A heavenly finale.
Transfer to Mendoza airport
in the evening to catch your international flight back home or travel onto to Buenos Aires
on your own. Tchau amigos! Buen viaje! (B, L)
