Panama The San Blas Islands and Cuna Indians

SAN BLAS ISLANDS

The San Blas (or Las Mulatas) archipelago has 365 islands ranging in size from tiny ones with a few coconut palms to islands on which hundreds of Cuna Indians live. About 50 are inhabited. The islands, off the Caribbean coast E of Colon, vary in distance from the shore from 100m to several kilometres and are strung out along the coast for over 200 km from the Gulf of San Blas to the Colombian border.

The Cuna (Kuna, or Tule) are the most sophisticated and politically organized of the country’s three major groups. They run the San Blas Territory virtually on their own terms, with internal autonomy and, uniquely among Panama’s Indians, send their representative to the National Assembly. The women wear gold nose- and ear-rings, and costumes with unique designs based on local themes, geometric patterns, stylized fauna and flora, and pictorial representations of current events or political propaganda. They are outside the Panamanian tax zone and have negotiated a treaty perpetuating their long-standing trade with small craft from Colombia. Many men work on the mainland, but live on the islands.

Photographers need plenty of small change, as set price for a Cuna to pose is US$0.25. Molas (decorative handsewn applique for blouse fronts) cost upwards of US$10 each (also obtainable in many Panama City and Colon shops). You can also try the San Blas perfume, Kantule, similarly available in city shops.